Arizona Monsoons - Trip Report
7/28/24
Hotel McCoy - Tucson
Had a long travel day today (car-plane-car). Left Corvallis at 6 am and drove to PDX. Started the trip off on the right foot by stopping at Dos Hermanos bakery in Portland for conchas! Flying was pretty uneventful, although I was slightly more annoyed at people and uncomfortable on the plane than normal. After picking up the rental car, we beelined to Asadero Norte de Sonora. Had a delicious lunch of chicken and carne asada, with beans, avocado, and tortillas, washed down with horchata and tamarindo.
We left Phoenix and drove south toward Tucson, encountering some monsoon thunderstorms on the way. I had forgotten we passed through Pinal County, so I was eagerly eBirding every species we could see. Of note was a Black Vulture, somewhat uncommon in SE Arizona, but a resident of the barren ag fields along I-10.
Reached Tucson and checked into our hotel, before heading to Sweetwater Wetlands to get a proper list in, with a chance at some of my more straightforward targets. We met my dad’s friend, and former colleague, Luke Safford. It was spitting a little, but relatively cool and a welcome respite from a day of traveling. Whenever I visited my dad in Tucson, we would always bird Sweetwater and it’s a great little spot in town. We did not see Brown-crested Flycatcher, and Least Bittern had not been present for several weeks, but still had some good highlights including, Western Tanager (AZ bird), Summer Tanager (AZ bird), Tropical Kingbird (AZ bird), Lesser Nighthawk (ABA bird!), Yellow-headed Blackbird, and Sora. We also saw javelinas, raccoons, and hawk moths. It was my first time meeting Luke and he was great to bird with and chat to!
Still full from lunch, we stopped at the Food Conspiracy Co-op to stock up for the week, before retiring to the hotel.
Looking up into Miller Canyon
7/29/24
Left Tucson at 5 am and headed southwest to the Huachucas. We had considered starting the week at Madera and Box Canyon, but with the Southern Wings birding festival starting later in the week, Cochise County would soon be a place to avoid. That was all fine with me, as I was eager to see Flame-colored Tanager. That was our first stop. A female and a juvenile were being seen there consistently in Miller Canyon. We were hearing Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher on the way up, and eventually got looks at one, the first lifer of the trip. We continued up the canyon, listening for tanagers. Flame-colored has a call very similar to Western Tanager. There was a cluster of pins where it had previously been reported and as we reached the further one, we heard a tanager! After a brief search, we were able to get on the bird and confirm it was Flame-colored! Initially, our looks were quite obscured but eventually we were able to get looks at both the female and juvenile, and particularly good looks at the female. We were on the upper trail, giving us great eye-level views.
Flame-colored Tanager (Piranga bidentata) at Miller Canyon
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher (Myiodynastes luteiventris) at Ramsey Canyon
We stopped at Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary, but activity was quite limited, and we were told the Lucifer Hummingbird wouldn’t be around until later in the day. After briefly looking there we moved onto Ramsey Canyon. It was disappointing to hear the Berylline Hummingbird had not been seen for a while, but we did get to see a Blue-throated Mountain-gem on a nest at the visitor center. As we walked up we enjoyed very nice looks at Painted Redstart and Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, along with my first looks at Brown-crested Flycatcher. However, as we looped around on the trail, we weren’t able to connect with Elegant Trogon. Ramsey was feeling like a bit of a disappointment as we walked back toward the visitor center. Then we heard the burry, booming call of a trogon!! My dad was able to locate it just up the trail and we got awesome views, including of it investigating a cavity!
Coppery-tailed Trogon (Trogon ambiguus) - formerly Elegant Trogon - at Ramsey Canyon
Birria tacos, tacos, Sonora dogs, a carmelo, and the accompaniments at GUADALAJARA STREET TACOS AND HOT DOGS in Sierra Vista.
Ramsey now redeemed, we headed into Sierra Vista for lunch. Options were limited, but GUADALAJARA STREET TACOS AND HOT DOGS more than delivered. No longer needing to eat for the day, we stocked up on liquids and Mexican candy at Food City, then headed back to Ash Canyon Sanctuary. Upon arrival, we learned the Lucifer had just been seen 10 minutes prior. Darn! Had we missed our only opportunity to see it? Hummingbird activity was good, with lots of Anna’s and Broad-billed, along with Black-chinned, and a Violet-crowned. After about 20 minutes, my dad caught a glimpse of the Lucifer and not long after we got good looks of it at a feeder. We stuck around and got several nice looks at it over the next half an hour.
Lucifer Hummingbird (Calothorax lucifer) at a feeder at Ash Canyon Sanctuary
With our Huachucas targets sorted, we started to head back to Tucson. It was only 3:30ish, so we decided to head to Madera Canyon to listen for Whiskered Screech-Owl and Mexican Whip-poor-will. This took us through Box Canyon, giving us another shot at the sometimes elusive Thick-billed Kingbird and Five-striped Sparrow. When we first reached the kingbird spot, we only saw Cassin’s Kingbirds, making us wonder if they had displaced the Thick-billed. Then we went down in the wash and saw the Thick-billed perched up, out of sight of the road. The good day was getting better. We continued on (Box Canyon is beautiful) to the steeper, rockier part, to look for Five-striped Sparrow. We heard it singing pretty quick and then I spotted it perched on top of an ocatillo. It wasn’t super close, but we got really nice views, finally breaking the curse for my dad. As we drove out of the canyon, we noticed a snake in the road. Consultation would later reveal it to be a Green Rat Snake (Senticolis triaspis)! A predominately Central American species, their range just barely extends into the US in southeastern Arizona. We continued to Madera, stopping briefly to snag Varied Bunting at the mouth of Box Canyon.
The area of Box Canyon where we saw Five-striped Sparrow
Green Rat Snake (Senticolis triaspis) in Box Canyon - iNat link
Thunderstorms were heavy over the Santa Ritas, but we continued on. Dusk was falling as we reached the Mt. Wrightson picnic area, and it was raining hard on and off. I heard a turkey gobble a couple times but with the rain it seemed unlikely to get more. We were thinking of heading back, but the rain let up enough to listen again. With lightning and thunder in the distance, I was able to pick out a Mexican Whip-poor-will across the canyon. It wasn’t giving the full song, but the few perrWEs it gave were distinctive. I also heard a distant tremolo call of Whiskered Screech from up the canyon! I was surprised anything was calling with the rain, but it was neat to hear them in such weather! An absolute banner day, all in all.
7/30/24
“Slept in” until 6 am so we could get pastries from La Estrella. They are seriously so good. I could wax poetic and we would be here all day.
Assorted pastries from La Estrella Bakery
Headed south to Las Cienegas grasslands, where we very quickly picked up singing Botteri’s and Cassin’s Sparrows. There was also a calling Common Nighthawk. Lesser Nighthawk is the predominant species here, but as you go further south and east, especially into Chihuahuan Grassland, Common becomes possible. Lark Sparrow, Black-throated Sparrow, and Rufous-crowned Sparrow were all nice to hear as well. We continued south to Patagonia, and found soaring Mississippi Kites shortly after arriving at the city park. We moved on to Paton’s Center. My dad chatted with an old colleague from his Tucson Audubon days, and I got nice looks at Queen butterflies, along with others that are yet to be ID’d. We looped around their new trail, looking for cuckoos, but couldn’t find any. Cassin’s Kingbird, Thick-billed Kingbird, and Brown-crested Flycatcher were all nice though! Before leaving, we walked along the cuckoo corridor. Aptly named, as we got nice looks at Yellow-billed Cuckoo.
Yellow-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus americanus) in the cuckoo corridor at Paton’s Center
Salads at Gathering Grounds in Patagonia
We stopped at Gathering Grounds to refuel and revegetable(?). It was nice to have some salads after a meat heavy few days. After a brief stop at the Patagonia Roadside Rest (I tried to turn a mystery raptor into Crested Caracara), we drove back to Madera Canyon. The hummingbird feeders at Santa Rita Lodge delivered, with Berylline Hummingbird. We only saw it for about 20 seconds during the hour plus we were there, which was not the most desirable, but our looks were still decent. Plus, we got great looks at several Rivoli’s Hummingbirds.
American Black Bear (Ursus americanus) coming down Mt. Wrightson trail - iNat link
Western Black-tailed Rattlesnake (Crotalus molossus) on the road coming out of Madera Canyon - iNat link
I was starting to feel quite tired, so when we drove up to the Wrightson trailhead, I promptly took a nap in the car. It was restorative, and just the ticket. Afterward, we hiked up the trail a little ways. We got stymied by a black bear coming down the trail towards us. I was probably overly laissez faire about it, but my dad was kinda freaked out, and he promptly headed back down the trail. Upon returning to the parking lot, we encountered a couple setting up what turned out to be bug lighting. I have been getting increasingly interested in bug lighting recently, so was fairly thrilled at the chance to be part of some. My dad was somewhat less amused. They were using a generator to run their light bulb, which would have a not insignificant impact on our ability to hear whip-poor-wills. But to cut to the chase, we were able to hear them well, despite the generator, and I got to see a ton of sick bugs, including sphinx moths, jewel scarabs, and rhino beetles. As we were driving out of the canyon we found a Black-tailed Rattlesnake on the road. A great day overall, though my dad was definitely worn out by the end of it.
Summary:
Year birds
Miles - 6 (417)
Eric - 9 (331)
AZ birds
Miles - 8 (235)
Eric - 2 (278)
ABA birds
Miles - 4 (595)
Eric - 2 (560)
Life birds
Miles - 4 (1167)
Eric - 1 (1196)
7/31/24
Another late night meant a day of properly sleeping in. We left just before 7 am, and stopped to get breakfast burritos and horchata lattes at Barista del Barrio. The latte was good, although a little sweet for me, but the burritos were out of this world. Sonoran flour tortillas are simply incredible. Well equipped, we headed east, across town towards Mt. Lemmon. After several miles along the winding mountain road, we reached the Molino Basin trailhead, where we would have a chance at Gray Vireo. Sleeping in meant we didn’t arrive until 8:30, and it was already hot. We were both suffering a little in the heat, but ended up searching for an hour anyway. Just before heading back, we thought we heard a vireo singing, but only a couple times, so we weren’t able to locate it or get a recording.
Rose Canyon Lake on Mt. Lemmon
View from Mt. Lemmon, looking north in the San Pedro drainage
We continued up the mountain to Rose Canyon Lake, at an elevation of 7000 feet. It was much cooler up there, especially in the shade. There was a gentle breeze coming off the lake and through the pines, which felt amazing. Activity was light at first, but we soon found some nice pockets. Grace’s Warbler gave way to Red-faced Warbler, one of the big targets for the day. While we did not encounter the Greater Pewee we were also hoping for, we did see three nuthatch species (Red, White-breasted, and Pygmy), lots of Black-throated Gray Warblers, Pine Siskin and Red Crossbill, and a surprise Lazuli Bunting. With some reluctance, we headed higher up the mountain. As we turned off toward the site where a Short-tailed Hawk was hanging out, the road narrowed, and turned to rough dirt. Thunderstorms were forming but we decided to walk, as it wasn’t too far. We heard lots of House Wrens on the walk, as well as some Steller’s Jays, and a Brown Creeper, all stuff limited to higher elevations in this part of the world. The viewpoint did not provide the hawk but did provide stunning views of the San Pedro River and beyond. We got more nice looks at Red-faced Warbler, along with a fleeting glimpse of a Virginia’s Warbler. We returned to the car just as it was starting to sprinkle. We had considered going on to Summerhaven for a cold drink and a chance to relax, but with dinner plans that evening, we decided to return to our hotel to rest. My dad had procured some chigger bites, so we stopped to grab some Benadryl cream and calamine lotion. Upon returning to the hotel, I realized I also had chigger bites. An intriguing development. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon, then met Luke for dinner at Taqueria Aqui Con El Nene, an all time Tucson great.
Summary:
Year birds
Miles - 4 (421)
Eric - 3 (334)
AZ birds
Miles - 8 (243)
Eric - 2 (280)
ABA birds
Miles - 1 (596)
Eric - 0 (560)
Life birds
Miles - 1 (1168)
Eric - 0 (1196)
8/1/24
After getting specific details from Luke about a site for Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, we got up early to get there by sunrise. Unlike other days, we headed west, then south. We saw good numbers of Lesser Nighthawks as we drove through the desert. Several miles down a gravel road, we stopped at an unassuming stretch of dry wash. Rufous-winged Sparrows (a Sonoran Desert endemic) and Black-throated Sparrows sang. A Gilded Flicker and Ash-throated Flycatcher were around. We surveilled the area for close to an hour with no success, before deciding to move on. It was disappointing, but even with a known site, there are no guarantees, especially during this time of year. Definitely a beautiful spot though, and always worth it to try.
A pretty sunrise at the Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl spot
No target species but plenty of marvelous views
We continued south, toward Arivaca Lake, where a Purple Gallinule and Painted Buntings were being reported. As we got close, we passed grassy fields with winding streams, and scattered, mature cottonwoods. Perfect Gray Hawk habitat. I got brief looks at a raptor, and was confident it was gray hawk, but we would get better looks later. We passed the town of Arivaca, and the road wound through verdant mesquite hills. The road turned to dirt, and rough dirt at that. We pondered all the people who drove it with boat trailers. Upon reaching the boat launch, we immediately saw Green Heron, but no sign of the gallinule. I perused the shore and adjacent vegetation, getting nice looks at a Yellow-billed Cuckoo and Tropical Kingbird. There wasn’t a ton of ground to cover, but we strolled throughout, diligently scanning the visible lakeshore. Spotted Sandpiper and especially Bronzed Cowbird were nice trip birds. Towards the end, we were both on the dock next to the boat ramp, hoping the gallinule would materialize. Turning around to head back, I saw a whole-ass Mountain Lion, 30 yards away, walking perpendicular to us along the top of the boat ramp. I pointed as my dad turned around, and reached for my camera, but it was already walking up into the brush. It was the first time my dad has seen one and my best view of the several I’ve seen. They are such awesome animals, it’s always a treat to see one (unless you are the treat).
Arivaca Lake (and the view the Mountain Lion had of us)
We headed back to Tucson, lacking any of our avian targets, but with a major mammal added to it. We visited Tacos Apson, another legendary Tucson establishment. Afterward, we enjoyed tres leches cake from Dolce Pastello with cortados at the Augustin Mercado. We returned to the hotel and both napped (much needed). Faced with an evening absent of plans, we decided to go to Mariscos Chihuahua for some light food and beers. Neither of us were particularly hungry, but an activity was more enticing than lying in bed for four more hours before trying to sleep. We ended up with a bit too much food but our ceviche was very good. At this point in the trip, the severity of our chigger bites made sleep a bit of a fraught affair, but with the help of calamine lotion, we survived the night.
Taco Apson delights. From top left: frijoles and tortillas, tacos apson, taco asada, taco frijoles, taco chino, lorenza
Tres leches and chocolate tres leches cake
Ceviche at Mariscos Chihuahua
Summary:
Year birds
Miles - 2 (423)
Eric - 7 (341)
AZ birds
Miles - 1 (244)
Eric - 0 (280)
ABA birds
Miles - 0 (596)
Eric - 0 (560)
Life birds
Miles - 0 (1168)
Eric - 0 (1196)
8/2/24
For our last day in Tucson we had decided to return to Madera Canyon to hike up to the realm of Greater Pewees. The Chiricahuas were on the cards at a certain point, but a five hour round trip, followed by traveling to Phoenix that evening, was more than we could compel our tired selves to do.
We visited Estrella for pastries, then drove south to the Santa Ritas. On our way to the canyon we saw a Varied Bunting (only the second time we’d seen one), and enjoyed very good views. We started our hike a little after 8 am, and did not encounter any large and friend-shaped-but-not-friend mammals. I was feeling somewhat more spritely, and shortly outpaced my dad (with his permission). It was warm, but at this point in the morning, shade was still prevalent. I proposed turning around after about 2 miles, but we decided to continue up, toward better Greater Pewee habitat. I spotted a Zone-tailed Hawk on the way up, a new trip bird, and heard a trogon. We ascended through predominantly oak forest, to pine-oak, to pine forest as we neared Josephine Saddle. eBird recorded our one-way track at 3.5, further than either of us had expected to hike. It was pleasant at the saddle, though slightly disappointing, as abundant Yellow-eyed Juncos were the majority of the birds we saw, and the views were not was we had imagined they would be. We were running a little low on water, so we headed down shortly. It was a nice hike, despite striking out on our targets yet again. Rivoli’s Hummingbird, Hutton’s Vireo, Pygmy Nuthatch, and Blue-gray Gnatcatcher were all fun to see though. Overall, it was good, although we could have brought more water, and someone (not naming names), regretted wearing pants instead of shorts.
View from Mt. Wrightson trail, looking north
View from Mt. Wrightson trail, looking south
We stopped at Apson on the way back through town, then the Mercado for raspados. We bid farewell to Tucson, and headed toward our hotel west of Phoenix.
Summary:
Year birds
Miles - 1 (424)
Eric - 1 (342)
AZ birds
Miles - 0 (244)
Eric - 0 (280)
ABA birds
Miles - 0 (596)
Eric - 0 (560)
Life birds
Miles - 0 (1168)
Eric - 0 (1196)
8/3/24
We awoke just before dawn and discovered that even at 5 am, it was still 90 degrees. We managed a dutiful hour at the thrasher spot, before giving up. Our target was LeConte’s Thrasher and the first bird of the day was the best candidate. We were treated to classic thrasher views, distant, scurrying, looks at the back. The only other thrashers we saw were right at the end, as we were walking back to the car. The resulting blood pressure spike ultimately did not pan out. We decided they were Bendire’s based on their shortish bills, overall coloration, and the fact that they were much too confiding.
Hot and tired at the thrasher spot
We refreshed ourselves at the hotel before heading to east Phoenix for Rosy-faced Lovebird. We promptly found them at the first city park we went to. A colorful naturalized exotic, and now we would never need to come back to Phoenix! We visited the Heard Museum, which was genuinely cool, before heading to the airport to unwind before our flight out that evening.
Rosy-faced Lovebirds (Agapornis roseicollis) in urban Phoenix
Summary:
Year birds
Miles - 2 (426)
Eric - 2 (344)
AZ birds
Miles - 1 (245)
Eric - 1 (281)
ABA birds
Miles - 1 (597)
Eric - 1 (561)
Life birds
Miles - 1 (1169)
Eric - 1 (1197)
